‘Nuanced, complex, nutty’ – the best (and worst) supermarket smoked salmon tasted and rated | The food filter

Our in-house eco-chef sampled a range of the most sustainable, delicious and well-priced smoked salmon for your Christmas table

Silky, buttery, aromatic smoked salmon is one of Christmas’s purest pleasures, yet salmon farms have a well-earned reputation for poor welfare and environmental damage, so choosing a sustainable one is more than a little daunting. Some certifications, however, are genuinely rigorous. My main guide, as ever, is the Marine Conservation Society’s (MCS) Good Fish Guide, which rates wild-caught Alaskan salmon as the best choice and ranks European Aquaculture Stewardship Council-certified salmon as a good farmed choice.

Organic salmon, meanwhile, scores well for feed sustainability, fish health and management, but fares pretty poorly for environmental impact. If you’re interested in the wider impacts of salmon farming, check out Off the Table and remember, there are delicious, sustainable alternatives out there.